Maps, trains and slow travel.
There is a certain kind of calm that only arrives after the third station you did not plan to see. This week: a window seat, a thermos, and a paper map that was wrong in all the right ways.
A small experiment in cartography: draw the shore you grew up near, then compare it with the survey. The differences turned out to be the interesting part.
Forty kilometres a day, no schedule, one good bakery per village. A short log of what the road looked like when nobody was in a hurry.